October 14, 2001

Our trip began for me when I was picked up with my boat and gear by Andrea Wolf. We drove to Louisa Arndt's house in San Rafael where we loaded gear and boats. The trip had shrunk to three paddlers so we needed only one car, Andrea's Grand Cherokee, luxury accommodations for a change.

October 15, 2001

After an early 6AM departure, we enjoyed a very smooth drive across the San Rafael Bridge, down 580 past Berkeley, through Livermore and then down I5 through Los Angeles and San Diego to the border. We made good time, encountering no backups in any of the urban areas. An easy border crossing was slowed only a bit to obtain tourist cards and pay the entrance fee. There were no problems getting through Tijuana and onto the toll road to Ensenada where we took a room in an acceptable hotel with secure off street parking. After a walk around the tourist part of town to stretch, we ate in a nice outdoor restaurant. A good night's sleep was interrupted occasionally by a loud TV at the front desk.

October 16, 2001

Among the Baja cactus
(Photo by Andrea)

Early departure, lost a half hour or so when we got somewhat lost trying to find the road south in the dark. We eventually left the southern outskirts of Ensenada behind and followed the cool foggy coast south, stopping for a large brunch at a great restaurant, Valentina's in San Vicente, recommended by a policeman standing in the road. Properly fortified, we followed the highway inland, entering the scenic part of Baja, full of distant vistas and interesting cactus. After turning off the main highway, the final potholed 40 miles to LA Bay passed quickly as we finally crested the last pass and came upon the first panoramic view of the bay, awesome. Spectacular desert mountains loomed over the deep blue bay which was punctuated with many volcanic islands, large and small. We continued into town to case out the commercial center consisting of several grocery stores and motels plus a scattering of other small businesses. Very simple and rustic, a few failed campgrounds testifying to the resistance of the place to attempts at any major tourist or resort development.

First view of LA Bay
(Photo by Andrea)

We then drove out a washboard gravel road to examine several campgrounds north of town, finally settling on Daggett's which seemed a safe place to leave the car as well as a suitable place to spend the night. The late afternoon warm wind was raising small whitecaps on the bay as we unpacked and settled into our palapa. Then a trip back to town for dinner at a small taco stand, the restaurant we had intended to eat in being closed. Over dinner, we were told tales of gales by a Canadian sailor and his female mate, the last major blow having occurred a few days previously. He warned of high seas outside the bay during these winds which can come up unexpectedly (by him at least) and last for several days. This story, in addition to similar warnings I had read previously, put me in a cautious mood about our planned route. Perhaps this was an unfortunate beginning as the sailor may have exaggerated conditions for our benefit in a well intentioned attempt to make us cautious.

Back at camp, discussions ensued among the three of us about the advisability of paddling outside the bay. One of Andrea's goals was to go around Punto Malo (didn't like the sound of that) and south to Bahia Pescadero with its long white beach. My new found caution favored staying within the bay or at least north (upwind) of our starting point. So we compromised with a plan to go north outside the bay and around Isla Coronado for our initial paddle. Then decide our next destination as we became more familiar with the weather. Darkness having long ago descended, we finally dropped off to a deep sleep.

October 17, 2001

Paddling on LA Bay
(Photo by Andrea)

Up at dawn, we packed the boats with experienced efficiency and were away well before noon. We first made the crossing to Isla Ventana, one of the large islands centered in the bay. Conditions were calm and, to my taste, hot. We then island hopped the crossing over to the south end of the large Isla Coronado. The eastern horizon was filled with Isla Angel del la Guarda. Acting on the advice received earlier from another camper, we turned north along the near shore of the island and paddled easily to a passage that separates the south tip of the island from the main northern part. This cut is filled with two sandy bars which create a large lagoon between the two islands. Just beautiful. Arriving at high tide, we were able to paddle east completely across the lagoon and examine the wide beach on the east shore. This would have made a good camp but we opted to return to the west end of the lagoon and make camp at the lagoon entrance.

Lagoon on Isla Coronado
(Photo by Andrea)

We then beat the afternoon heat by donning snorkeling gear and swimming slowly around the large rock outcroppings just off the beach. Several attractive species were in evidence in the murky water. As the tide began to recede, the water pouring out of the lagoon became like a river next to camp, complete with a series of haystacks. After dinner and a classic sunset, the moonless night put on a spectacular display of stars and the Milky Way. I was able to point out several star clusters and even the Andromeda Galaxy to an attentive audience. Much later in the evening, I'm told, when the tide turned, the river through the lagoon entrance reversed and gave an even more impressive display. Either way, the sound of rushing water accompanied a sound sleep.

Sunset over the lagoon
(Photo by Andrea)

October 18, 2001

As we were packing up for a circumnavigation of Isla Coronado, Raphael arrived with a panga full of tourists. In a friendly way, he let us know that we were supposed to register in town before camping on the island. Like others, he also warned about the sudden winds and was glad to hear we carried a marine radio in case we became stranded on a distant beach. It is apparently common for the pangas to rescue kayakers from beaches in the LA Bay area. As this trip was an exploratory expedition, we were glad to continue gathering such first hand information.

We set off around the south end of the island and then back north on the east side past the sandy gap where we had camped. Paddling easily and steadily again in calm and hot conditions, we passed several nice beaches along the steep and rocky volcanic shoreline. One patch of interesting tidal rip enlivened our route. As we rounded the northern end of the island, we had dramatic views almost straight up the side of the high volcano. The dark rock and deep blue water gave the area a forboding but dramatic atmosphere. Turning south along the west shore, we moved through a channel between the main and a smaller island. Stopped to chat with some rich Mexicans in a huge beautiful sailboat, we inquired again about the weather but learned little new. The afternoon winds were coming up as we made the crossing back to the mainland, giving about two foot wind waves which we found enjoyable. We started looking for a good campsite as we continued south along the coast and around Punta La Gringa, finally finding a nice sandy beach with great views of the bay. This was our longest day at about 12 miles.

Camp and view near Punta La Gringa
(Photo by Andrea)

October 19, 2001

After a leisurely start, we paddled south following the shoreline. We had noted snorkelers occasionally and finally stopped to talk to one, a friendly Mexican fellow. Turns out the snorkelers were after octopus which are sold to local stores and restaurants. Arriving back at Daggett's just as the midday heat intensified, we were glad for the shade of a palapa. Louisa and I were both feeling the heat. While Louisa rested, Andrea and I drove into town for limes and ice and to explore. We visited the office where we were supposed to have registered to camp on Isla Coronado, closed of course, this is Baja. Back at camp we continued to gather information by chatting with Ruben, the owner. He assured us that he was always ready to respond to a call on the marine radio by motoring out in his panga to pick up kayakers stranded by the wind. The price for this service was not mentioned.

October 20, 2001

After lightening our boats by leaving unnecessary gear in the car, we packed up and set off across the bay, this time heading south. Approaching the southern end of Isla Careza de Caballo, we encountered a large school of dolphins. We became completely surrounded with the water in turmoil. Some would come close to take a look, going under the boats. Others would pass nearby on a parallel course, checking us out. A fabulous experience. Continuing out through the channel, we passed the area where the UC Davis group lost lives last year. This is a deceptive spot where the distance from the island where the group started and the mainland that was their goal is further than it looks. This may have tempted the group to launch their panga into conditions that would have been better to wait out.

Making the short crossing, we took a side trip to look at Bahia Don Juan, a peculiar bay more like a small lake. Several sail boats were anchored in the shelter of the cove. Over lunch, we briefly discussed camping here but decided to follow the coastline back into the main bay. Passing Punta Rojo, we eased south along a very rocky and uninviting section. We were looking for a place we had heard about where camping is allowed just north of the houses lining the south end of the bay. Becoming a bit concerned about landing on the rocky shore, we came around a corner. There was a long white beach with an old wrecked boat standing in the center. Absolutely beautiful with the volcanic mountains looming behind. We made camp at the north end of the beach and then walked down the beach to the shade of the wrecked boat to talk with an American beach comber for awhile. Back at camp, we snorkeled a bit to cool off, being careful to shuffle our feet along the sandy bottom to avoid the stingrays that we saw. We then sat and admired the commanding view across the bay of the high mountains behind the town. And waited for the hot sun to set behind the mountains. The cooling sunset was red and spectacular.

Camp at dusk | Paddling on blue waters
(Photos by Andrea)

October 21, 2001

Continuing our in-depth tour of the bay, we paddled around the south end. Houses of various magnificence lined the shore for a mile or so. We then passed a long empty area where a barrier dune separates the bay from a large dry marsh. Lots of birds. While eating lunch on the beach, a fellow doing a beach walk stopped to talk. This was Florin who runs commercial kayaking trips in the bay (an outfit called Miramar Adventures, highly recommended). Very interesting guy, originally from Romania. Splits his time between LA Bay and Seattle. When he learned we were headed for Camp Gecko for the night as part of our exploration, he invited us over since he lives right next door. Arriving at Camp Gecko, we found, instead of simple palapas, rustic houses with large covered porches sitting right on the beach. For $12/night including an outdoor toilet and shower, we quickly abandoned camping. Luxuriating in the comfort of lounge chairs and a nice wall to use as a table for cooking, we also enjoyed being out of the sun. Later in the afternoon, we paddled out with some other kayakers to look at a whale shark but it was gone when we arrived.

Cabin at Camp Gecko
(Photo by Andrea)

Camp Gecko is a long time labor of love by Doc Abraham and his wife, both Mexican. The Doc is the town doctor when he isn't building and maintaining the camp. We had a long interesting talk with his wife, learning much about the bay and the weather. After dinner, we walked over to spend a couple of hours around a fire with Florin. Informative evening as he told us tales of various groups he has taken around the bay over the years. We were able to share experiences since his trips usually go where we had just been. Back at the cabin, we fell into deep sleep in the unexpected comfort of our new home.

October 22, 2001

After another leisurely start, we packed up some of our gear, leaving most in the house. We then paddled north along the coast past the main town and around Punta Arena. Some wind, fortunately from the side, enlivened our remaining paddle back to Daggett's. There we loaded the boats and drove back to Camp Gecko for our last night. The steering was making noise and we discovered a leaky hydraulic line which had let out most of the power steering fluid. Stress. The Doc was very helpful, finding and applying a hose clamp around the leaky area. He sold us some transmission fluid to refill the reservoir so we could drive back into town to consult a mechanic who said he couldn't do a repair. The entire hose assembly needed to be replaced as a unit. What to do? I had visions of the hose failing in the middle of the Baja desert and then what? Andrea decided to risk it. Our last evening was not as relaxing as we had anticipated.

October 23, 2001

We left early and drove all the way from LA Bay to LA, stopping occasionally to check the power steering fluid level. For some lucky reason, the hydraulic hose stopped leaking once we were up to speed and we used very little fluid on the return trip. We stopped at Valentina's again for a late lunch. South of Ensenada, we encountered an extra military checkpoint, probably increased security after the terrorist attacks in the US. But we were flagged on through without incident. The border crossing was a bit slow, taking 1/2 hour longer than the usual 45 mins. Unlike our fast passage south, we encountered heavy traffic north of San Diego all the way to Camp Pendleton where another military checkpoint was operating. We discovered that gas stations do not line the freeways in LA and wandered around looking for a station. The contrast between the dense, brightly lit commercial area of LA and the dark poverty of Baja couldn't have been greater. After finding a station in the dark while on our last gallon of gas, we finally arrived at the house in Westchester where Andrea's son is house sitting for one of his Loyola professors. After dinner and a nice visit, we were soon to bed.

October 24, 2001

The final day was an easy drive back home, encountering traffic leaving LA and going past Berkeley, neither a major slowdown. Good to be back.