Baja, LA Bay (Kopapa Kayak Club Trip)

Sunday, October 12, 2003

Spent Saturday evening at Louisa's in San Rafael with Ralph and Andrea. Dave and Laura arrived early and transferred gear and boats to Ralph's van. Our twin vans set off around 7:30AM on the usual route through Berkeley and Livermore, down I5 to the border and on to Quintas Papagayo in Ensenada. Prices there were way up from last year and the place felt grasping, especially in the restaurant even though the meal was adequate. We all slept well on our final stay there after the long but smooth drive.

Monday, October 13, 2003

Arrival - First View of LA Bay

After gathering coffee at McDonalds, we had the usual confusion traversing the streets of Ensenada but just followed the shoreline until we encountered Hwy 1. Stopped in San Vincente for our traditional huge and tasty breakfast. Then on to LA Bay across the beautiful and, for Fall, green desert (thanks to the recent passage of a hurricane up the Sea of Cortez which dumped up to 5 inches of rain). The road from Hwy 1 to LA Bay has been repaved for more than half the distance, a welcome respite from the old pothole mess. We bought dinner fixings in town and settled into our reserved cabin at Gecko, which was full. A nice wind tempered the heat as we relaxed on the beach over dinner before sacking out.

Tuesday, October 14, 2003

This was a rest and prep day at Gecko where we packed for the camping trip and went for a short paddle. Also chatted with Beach Bob who mentioned that several of the Gecko cabins were occupied with his visitors, thus explaining the fullness of the place. Explored Florin's place with an eye to purchase and determined from various discussions that he is asking too much ($20K being closer to reality than his price of $30K). Doc has split off and leased more lots and a contractor from California is building several large palapas. The place is changing, expanding and becoming busier and losing some of its rustic charm in the process.

Photo: Cabin at Camp Gecko

Wednesday, October 15, 2003

Alacran Shade - Herb, Louisa, Ralph, Laura, Andrea, Dave (Timed photo by Andrea)

The group departed for the initial paddle out of the bay, around Punta que Malo and Punta Pescador (aka Punta Soledad) and south along the coast to a nice sandy campsite on Punta Alacran (aka Punta Isla Viejo). This spot offered shade as it is tucked into vertical cliffs on the east end of the point. Shade was to be a prime consideration during this and the following days as the south wind brought the heat. Felt great to finally be on the way. We set up camp and did dinner while taking in the view of almost the full length of Isla Angel de la Guarda on the horizon. With darkness came the bioluminescence, a beautiful sight as the waves glowed while breaking on the sand and swimmers found themselves aglow. Sleep came early to most after the hot 13 mile paddle.

Thursday, October 16, 2003

After a leisurely breakfast in the growing heat, the group was in the final stages of packing up when I discovered an increasing light headedness which prevented me first from standing and then from even sitting up. This brought things to a grinding halt as I was sheperded onto a pad in the shade and forced to drink copious amounts of water. I first feared that I had contracted a nasty case of turista but it eventually turned out that I was dehydrated and in the first stages of heat stroke combined with exhaustion from days of frenetic preparation for the trip (and putting my motorhome in storage) plus the long drive down. So we took a layover day which we agreed all found useful. People hiked, paddled, rested and read and went fishing while I lay in a fever, drinking and eating and generally being well attended to by my paddling friends. The fever broke sometime in the night and I slept well thereafter.

Friday, October 17, 2003

Louisa entering Bahia de Los Animas (Photo by Andrea)

Awoke feeling like a new person, ready to paddle. We broke camp and the main group headed south from Punta Alacran directly to Punta El Soldado while Dave went on ahead for a solo crossing to Punta de Los Animas at the south end of the bay. I poked along the shore, not completely sure I was up to paddling a full day yet. A variety of interesting birds offered themselves for watching in Bahia Alacran. I eventually rounded Punta El Soldado for my first full view of Bahia de las Animas, always a stunning and breathtaking scene. We regrouped on the first white sand beach inside the bay. We had lunch in a rising NE wind and discussed options, not wanting to paddle against the wind or far from shore in the rising seas. We eventually decided to head on downwind along the shore to investigate a small fish camp at the end of the rough road that comes in from LA Bay. We discovered several very scenic islands and a rock point in the shelter of which was a collection of fishing shacks and a couple of more substantial but rustic dwellings, some with antennae. After examining these creations, we doubled back to some nice dunes just north of the village to set up camp for the night. The site fronted a large salt marsh and offered little shade but was otherwise perfect with lots of room for tents and unbeatable views of the bay and the dramatic range of mountains that bound the bay's southern shore.

As the afternoon wore on and the seas continued to rise, we established radio contact with Dave to let him know the campsite location. He was just inside Punta de Los Animas and set off for the return crossing, arriving in record time well before dinner. Ralph improvised a large red flag in an attempt to signal our location as Dave approached. From his exploration, Dave reported several great campsites which will be useful for future trips to Punta de Los Animas and points south. Mosquitos descended from the salt marsh at dusk, plaguing our evening repast but then abating somewhat as darkness fell.

Photo (by Andrea): Ralph's signal

Saturday, October 18, 2003

Alacran Beach and Campsite (Photo by Andrea)

The group visited the fish camp after breakfast to learn about the condition of the road and secure parking for future trips. All looks good for driving directly to Bahia de los Animas and paddling south on a future outing. We then packed up camp and paddled back around Punta El Soldado to the site on Alacran, fighting a significant headwind across Bahia Alacran in route. Felt good to get back into the shade.

Sunday, October 19, 2003

Looking for Whales Offshore

We decided on another layover day in the shady Alacran spot. Andrea and I paddled four miles out into the Sea of Cortez looking for whales. The view back towards the mainland was spectacular from this vantage. No whales were spotted as we returned in a following sea but we enjoyed the 8 miles of exercise. In the evening, we had an early Halloween party with people dressed in various impromptu garments festooned with sea shrubbery. The group had also prepared a great birthday party on this my 59th birthday. I came dressed in a makeshift diaper as the birthday boy, an idea I had unfortunately shared with Andrea who then assured that I follow through. Andrea had also toted along a cake with candles and I received several presents and cards from those who knew in advance of the occasion. One of my most memorable birthdays in a sublime remote spot.

Halloween Gals | Birthday Boy

Monday, October 20, 2003

We launched early, around 8AM, for the 12 mile return trip to LA Bay before the afternoon head winds came up. I paddled a bit offshore parallel to the pod to see if the incoming tidal current would be any help. Turned out not to be a big factor. We rounded Punta que Malo in substantial seas and regrouped on the south end of Isla Cabeza de Caballo (Horsehead Island) for lunch, after successfully beating the worst of the winds. Then on to La Mona for our final camp and evening. There we chatted with several sailors who were anchored offshore, picking up useful tips about weather reporting and desalination pumps. Skinny dipping took place after dinner and dark, a playful refreshment for those partaking in the bioluminescence.

Tuesday, October 21, 2003

Sunset from Gecko

After a slow and relaxing morning, we paddled back across the bay to Gecko, looking for whale sharks on the way. Dave and Laura lucked into one and I was near one but stayed away as various pangas full of tourists descended on the poor beast. We moved back into our cabin on the beach and spent the rest of the day getting organized and taking in the active beach scene.

Wednesday, October 22, 2003

Camp Gecko at the base of the mile high Sierra la Libertad

Ralph, Andrea and Louisa packed up and departed in Ralph's van in the morning. Dave, Laura and I spent the rest of the day in Gecko. Continuing the search for whale sharks, I took a three hour exercise paddle around the south end of the bay. Great to paddle once again in a light empty kayak. The grand views of the surrounding mountains and various islands make this an unbeatable place for exercising.

Thursday, October 23, 2003

After packing the van and checking out of Gecko, I paddled into town while Dave and Laura drove up in the van and did some grocery shopping for our upcoming trip to the islands and north of the bay. We met onshore, had a nice restaurant lunch, picked up water and then headed for Daggett's. There we left the van, packed the boats and did email at the small hotel next door. Launching around 4PM, we paddled in calm conditions past Isla Ventana to a great campsite just to the north on Isla Pata. This was the first time I'd paddled inside the island cluster and found it very attractive, perfect for kayaking. We had time to set up camp and do dinner before darkness fell. Good night's sleep in quiet splendor.

Friday, October 24, 2003

After breakfast, I took off for a solo paddle around Isla Piojo (Lice Island), the outermost island. The rugged shoreline made a scenic backdrop as I worked against the wind to the south tip and then paid attention to the substantial following seas as I turned back north. Back at camp, Dave and Laura gave rapt attention to the (quoting Dave): "sighting of a Giant Chuckwalla. Per "Adventure Kayaking Baja" book by Andromeda Romano-Lax, seeing the two foot long lizard is a treat. It's seen on islands only. Info: " the giant chuckwalla is about 2 feet long, and is able to store freshwater internally for long periods, as well as desalinate seawater within its body once the freshwater has been used." Wish we sea kayakers could do same."

Meeting my companions after the crossing to Isla Smith, we continued north to the lagoon where we were able to paddle easily to the eastern end of the lagoon on the high tide. After lunch, we paddled on to our intended campsite in a small cove just south of Isla Mitlan. The site was already occupied so we squeezed into a small sandy cove nearby that offered cliff shade. Dave fished a nearby point and soon caught dinner. After dark a whale could be heard blowing just offshore, a dramatic yet soothing sound for falling asleep.

Photo: Dave and fish at campsite on Isla Smith south of Isla Mitlan

Saturday, October 25, 2003

We explored north along the shoreline of Isla Smith, stopping to examine several more beach campsites for future trips. At the base of the volcano, we also located the trailhead for the steep trail that ascends to the volcano's peak. This is a hike we'd like to take on a winter visit when the weather is cooler. At the northern tip of the island, Dave suggested we cross back over to the mainland and head north rather than paddling down the east side of the island back to the lagoon. This we did after first admiring the colony of Blue Footed Boobies on the north side of Isla Coronadito. Conditions were calm for our four mile crossing which we made in about one hour with the help of a swift incoming tidal flow.

On the mainland, we soon located suitable camping in a large sandy wash behind a high rocky coastal berm. Laura and I spent the rest of the afternoon sitting in the shade of the coastal cliffs watching the wind and seas rise while Dave went exploring on foot. We were glad to be camping next to a large sheltering cliff as the winds rose to gale force by evening, continuing all night.

Photo: Campsite in sandy wash with rocky berm in foreground

Sunday, October 26, 2003

Rocky beach north of the volcano on Isla Smith

Wind greeted the dawn accompanied by high seas and ocean sized surf dumping onto the boulder beach. Even if we could have launched, staying upright in the large waves breaking in the open sea would have been difficult. So we were trapped on land. Since these NE winds can blow for days and we had limited water (about 5 gallons), we began to consider alternatives such as having to hike out. Dave went hiking in the rugged mountains behind our camp while Laura and I spent a pleasant afternoon in the shade of a large Elephant Tree chatting and taking in the scenery and dramatic seas. At high tide after lunch, we saw that the incoming waves were about to broach the top of the berm and flow down into our campsite. This prompted us to move camp further back up the wash to higher ground. Dave returned a bit after 4PM enthusiastic about his hike. The gale continued through dinner and into the night. We discussed our options, hiking out being considered by Dave to be impossible in a single day and risky as an overnight, and decided to see how conditions were in the morning. After dark, loud crashing announced the arrival of a coyote that had spotted us in the afternoon and had returned to make off with our trash bag. Utilizing skills learned as Park Host, I sent the coyote running and then wandered around collecting the scattered trash and secured the bag in a tree. This was immediately followed by deep sleep in my swaying tent.

Monday, October 27, 2003

Lady luck smiled on us. The wind blew well into the night but had died by dawn. We quickly packed (even before morning coffee), launched around 7:30AM, and headed back south towards the safety of the bay. The tidal flow was in our favor and the winds starting to pick up again as we worked the following seas in the channel between shore and Isla Smith. By 10AM, we had rounded Punta la Gringa and stopped on the gravel beach for coffee and breakfast after about a 7 mile paddle. Relaxing on the beach, we watched a large group share three jet skis in the small bay behind the point, a major intrusion in this natural area. Fortified, we continued south at a more leisurely pace along the north shore of the bay, past Daggett's and on to Camp Archelon (Turtle Camp). Here we found a camp spot in one of the half dozen wonderful small palapas on the sandy beach. After our 13 mile paddle, the shade of the palapa was welcome and we were soon moved in for the night. Camp Archelon is now our preferred camp, being simple and very well maintained by Antonio and Betty. Camp Gecko is changing into a more built up and busy place, still great for visiting the south end of the bay. But Turtle Camp can't be beat for rustic simplicity. The view is also spectacular as it takes in the entire bay. We spent the afternoon after lunch relaxing and socializing with our camping neighbors. Camp Archelon was originally set up as a research station for sea turtles and this work continues. We wandered down the beach to the three large tanks which hold a collection of sea turtles.

Tuesday, October 28, 2003

Camp Archelon (Turtle Camp)

Discovering that the Mexican insurance on the van ran through October 30 instead of October 29 as we had planned, we stayed in Camp Archelon for an extra day and night. It was great to have time for a relaxed organization for departure. I paddled up to the lighthouse and back, noting the many large sting rays on the sandy bottom. Hot day as the south winds returned. Dave fished in the afternoon while Laura and I took stayed in the shade of the palapa. Carrie came over for dinner, bringing a bag of fish along that she was given by a local fisherman. Great dinner enhanced by lots in interesting info from Carrie about the local politics and planning.

Wednesday, October 29, 2003

Foggy at dawn. Leisurely departure delayed somewhat when we had to return to Archelon to retrieve Dave's Tilley hat. Coolish weather, good for driving. We stopped for lunch at one of the small eateries along Hwy 1 where our enjoyment of a lobster dish was diminished by a feeling of being cheated when we received a bill of $40. Live and learn. Had our vehicle searched by the army at Santa Rosaria, a pain. Then on to San Vincente for a great dinner after which we took a room at the hotel behind the restaurant, a clean and secure place.

Thursday, October 30, 2003

After a huge breakfast, we continued on, setting a new record of about 15 minutes to get through the border crossing. Lost time in a big backup behind a bad accident just north of San Diego and again at a fire in the San Bernadino mountains on I5. We were glad the road was still open as flames were close to the road. Good to see the ocean again along with cooler onshore breezes, a help for both driving and fire fighting. We debated pushing all the way to San Rafael but opted instead to take a room in Santa Nella as the hour became late. All had a good sleep.

Friday, October 31, 2003

Easy drive to Louisa's in San Rafael where we transferred boats and gear to Laura's car and then set off for homes. End of a great trip.